Tskhinval
If you find yourself in South Ossetia, it is likely that your route will lie through Tskhinval, the capital of the republic, and the only city with the usual range of tourist services.
What to Visit
Armenian Church
(The St. Mary's church)
Armenian street
Despite its common name, the main church of Tskhinval belongs not to Armenians but to the Orthodox Alan Diocese. The building of the church was erected in 1718. Judging by the inscription near the door in the southern part of the building, "Kaihosro and Parsadan, sons of Georgiy, and Givi, son of Kaihosro" paid for its construction. The names are Georgian, but scientists argue about the ethnicity of the ktetors (founders). Georgian historians claim that the Armenian quarter in Krtskhilvani was formed only in the 19th century when the settlers occupied the Georgian temple. Armenians insist that their community already existed in the beginning of the 18th century and the temple could have been built with the money of rich Armenian traders who used Georgian versions of their names. Anyway, worship services in the temple stopped in the 1920s when it started being used as a museum. The local Orthodox community restored the church only in 1990. Father Jacob, an incredibly charismatic priest who did much to maintain the spirit of the faithful during the crisis years, serves there.
(The St. Mary's church)
Armenian street
Despite its common name, the main church of Tskhinval belongs not to Armenians but to the Orthodox Alan Diocese. The building of the church was erected in 1718. Judging by the inscription near the door in the southern part of the building, "Kaihosro and Parsadan, sons of Georgiy, and Givi, son of Kaihosro" paid for its construction. The names are Georgian, but scientists argue about the ethnicity of the ktetors (founders). Georgian historians claim that the Armenian quarter in Krtskhilvani was formed only in the 19th century when the settlers occupied the Georgian temple. Armenians insist that their community already existed in the beginning of the 18th century and the temple could have been built with the money of rich Armenian traders who used Georgian versions of their names. Anyway, worship services in the temple stopped in the 1920s when it started being used as a museum. The local Orthodox community restored the church only in 1990. Father Jacob, an incredibly charismatic priest who did much to maintain the spirit of the faithful during the crisis years, serves there.
The Alan Diocese of the Church of the Genuine Orthodox Christians of Greece (the Synod of the Oak) was established in 2005. It is run by Father Ambrosius, a British national who was tonsured a monk in Greece and received his theological education in the United States. For local priests, joining the Synod of the Oak of a Greek noncanonical old-style church was a forced measure. Neither they nor their flock wanted to obey Ilia II of Georgia who blessed the republic's return to Tbilisi by force without regard to sacrifice or destruction. The Russian Orthodox Church did not want to accept the diocese located in the canonical territory of the
Georgian sister church either. The policy of the current President of the Republic of South Ossetia, Anatoly Bibilov, is aimed at joining Russia. Thus, he sided with the Russian Orthodox Church in this conflict. According to his decree, Ambrosius, who had been visiting the republic regularly since 1988 and even received a passport of the Republic of South Ossetia, was stripped of his citizenship. There are now four priests in South Ossetia from the Alan diocese and one priest representing the interests of the Russian Orthodox Church. He serves in the new Trinity Church built in 2018 on Alan Dzhioev Avenue.
National Museum
6b Kosta Khetagurov St., Mon-Fri 10:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m., Sat 10:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m., free admission
https://www.facebook.com/pg/museumruo
In 2015, the National Museum of the Republic of South Ossetia moved to a new building renovated specifically for it. The most valuable in its collection is the Koban culture artifacts found in the Tliyskiy burial ground. Even those who are far from history and archaeology will find these exhibits interesting. These are amazing things regardless of their age (12th-6th century BC). The museum also exhibits treasures from other excavations in South Ossetia, a small collection of paintings (including works by Maharbek Tuganov and Kosta Khetagurov), contemporary art, local history, and ethnographic materials. There is a separate hall dedicated to modern history. It is mainly the Georgian-Ossetian conflicts in 1918-1920 and 1989-2008.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/museumruo
In 2015, the National Museum of the Republic of South Ossetia moved to a new building renovated specifically for it. The most valuable in its collection is the Koban culture artifacts found in the Tliyskiy burial ground. Even those who are far from history and archaeology will find these exhibits interesting. These are amazing things regardless of their age (12th-6th century BC). The museum also exhibits treasures from other excavations in South Ossetia, a small collection of paintings (including works by Maharbek Tuganov and Kosta Khetagurov), contemporary art, local history, and ethnographic materials. There is a separate hall dedicated to modern history. It is mainly the Georgian-Ossetian conflicts in 1918-1920 and 1989-2008.
The Kosta Khetagurov State Drama Theater
Theatre square
The Drama Theater in Tskhinval was opened in 1931. In 2015, its building - a successful example of early Stalinist architecture, somewhere between functionalism and classicism - burned down, to be completely reconstructed later. The restored theater was opened in the summer of 2018. All performances are in Ossetian, in the near future it is planned to arrange simultaneous interpretation into Russian through headphones. The most popular play is called Fatima. It is based on the poem by Kosta Khetagurov, the founder of Ossetian literature.
Theatre square
The Drama Theater in Tskhinval was opened in 1931. In 2015, its building - a successful example of early Stalinist architecture, somewhere between functionalism and classicism - burned down, to be completely reconstructed later. The restored theater was opened in the summer of 2018. All performances are in Ossetian, in the near future it is planned to arrange simultaneous interpretation into Russian through headphones. The most popular play is called Fatima. It is based on the poem by Kosta Khetagurov, the founder of Ossetian literature.
Photo of Natalya Ayriyan
The Portal Art Space
1 Osetinskaya St.
The first Portal was opened in Vladikavkaz. From the very beginning, it was a young artists and craftsmen squat. They were united by the idea of preserving and developing Ossetian traditional culture as an alternative to globalization. They began to hold concerts, film screenings, master classes, lectures, and public discussions. Tskhinval residents were inspired by the example and decided to create the same thing in their hometown.
1 Osetinskaya St.
The first Portal was opened in Vladikavkaz. From the very beginning, it was a young artists and craftsmen squat. They were united by the idea of preserving and developing Ossetian traditional culture as an alternative to globalization. They began to hold concerts, film screenings, master classes, lectures, and public discussions. Tskhinval residents were inspired by the example and decided to create the same thing in their hometown.
Other places
The KGB Border Guard Department of South Ossetia
18 Stalin St.
https://www.facebook.com/komitetgosbezopasnosti.so...
The tallest and most visible building in the capital is the House of the Government of the Republic. It is worth visiting it to get an entry pass to the border zone. All you have to do is have your passport on you, find the entrance from the north side (Kosta Khetagurov Street), and fill out an application. Most likely, the pass will be ready within an hour, but keep in mind that officially the passes are issued within 3 working days.
18 Stalin St.
https://www.facebook.com/komitetgosbezopasnosti.so...
The tallest and most visible building in the capital is the House of the Government of the Republic. It is worth visiting it to get an entry pass to the border zone. All you have to do is have your passport on you, find the entrance from the north side (Kosta Khetagurov Street), and fill out an application. Most likely, the pass will be ready within an hour, but keep in mind that officially the passes are issued within 3 working days.
The Russian Bathhouse
Kosta Kochiev St., +7 929 809 02 86
We strongly recommend that you visit the Russian Bathhouse located in the building of the Liga Chempionov sports center. It helps relieve fatigue and restore strength after the mountain expeditions. To make a reservation, call the hotel administrator.
Kosta Kochiev St., +7 929 809 02 86
We strongly recommend that you visit the Russian Bathhouse located in the building of the Liga Chempionov sports center. It helps relieve fatigue and restore strength after the mountain expeditions. To make a reservation, call the hotel administrator.
Where to Spend the Night
Where to Eat
- Vincenzo21 Stalin St., +7 929 804 03 90
It is the coziest place in Tskhinval and the only place where smoking is prohibited. It is located in the city center, in the park near the Drama Theater. The cuisine is mainly Italian and Japanese. There is a small choice of Ossetian dishes. The quality of food is stable. However, there are interruptions with the service, but most often it is ok. Besides, Vincenzo is the first to open in the city - from 9 a.m., so you won't find a better location for breakfast. - Assel19 Geroev St.
It is a strong competitor of Vincenzo. They cook delicious food, but the real choice is always way less than the one stated in the menu. Smoking in the hall is allowed. - TibAt the intersection of Isaac Harebov Street and Geroev Street
A small cigarette smoke-filled hall, a TV that is always on, and a hospitable owner who meets you as an old friend and pours you some Araka even before you order. But that depends on his mood. The owner's name is Alik, although everyone in town calls him Microbe. If you mention that Dmitry from Moscow sent you, your chances to get a full horn of Araka will increase. First of all, you just have to order Khashlama - huge pieces of meat cooked in a pot and seasoned with salt and pepper. Delicious Ossetian pies are delivered from the bakery across the street.
Where to Buy Stuff
Small Market
ул. Исаака Харебова
Every day, from about 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., there is a small farmers market near the intersection of Isaac Harebov Street and Alan Dzhioev Avenue, opposite the library.
Every day, from about 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., there is a small farmers market near the intersection of Isaac Harebov Street and Alan Dzhioev Avenue, opposite the library.
Solnechny Shopping Mall
Alan Dzhioev Avenue.
The largest shopping center in the city is located at the southern end of Alan Dzhioev Avenue. If you don't find what you need in it, most likely you won't find it anywhere else in town.
The largest shopping center in the city is located at the southern end of Alan Dzhioev Avenue. If you don't find what you need in it, most likely you won't find it anywhere else in town.
Souvenirs
Kosta Khetagurov St.
The shop next door to the National Museum sells everything from fridge magnets and flags to t-shirts and handicrafts.
The shop next door to the National Museum sells everything from fridge magnets and flags to t-shirts and handicrafts.
Gallery
At the intersection of Vaso Abaev Street and Stalin Street
The Gallery can be visited as an exhibition of contemporary South Ossetian artists and artisans. However, if you pay attention to price tags, you will realize that they are extremely reasonable.
The Gallery can be visited as an exhibition of contemporary South Ossetian artists and artisans. However, if you pay attention to price tags, you will realize that they are extremely reasonable.
Tskhinval's Surroundings
Dmenis (Vanat) Fortress
The fortress on the outskirts of the modern village of Dmenis was probably built in the 16th century and destroyed during the raids of Dagestani highlanders in the 18th century. In historical sources, it is mentioned as Vanat - named after the neighboring settlement. According to Vakhushti Bagrationi's History of the Georgian Kingdom, the Princes Eristovs ruled there starting from the middle of the 16th century. They trace their ancestry back to the Alan aristocratic family of Sidamonta. They received these lands in gratitude for capturing this very fortress when the former feudal lord opposed the King Simon I of Kartli.
The fortress on the outskirts of the modern village of Dmenis was probably built in the 16th century and destroyed during the raids of Dagestani highlanders in the 18th century. In historical sources, it is mentioned as Vanat - named after the neighboring settlement. According to Vakhushti Bagrationi's History of the Georgian Kingdom, the Princes Eristovs ruled there starting from the middle of the 16th century. They trace their ancestry back to the Alan aristocratic family of Sidamonta. They received these lands in gratitude for capturing this very fortress when the former feudal lord opposed the King Simon I of Kartli.
Photo of Ada Bagian
The Kheit Burning Spring
There is a mineral spring in the ruined village of Kheit on the left bank of the Great Liakhvi River. Like many other springs in South Ossetia, it is carbonated and the composition of local gas is such that it can burn directly in the water. Just bring the lighter to the spring to set it on fire.
There is a mineral spring in the ruined village of Kheit on the left bank of the Great Liakhvi River. Like many other springs in South Ossetia, it is carbonated and the composition of local gas is such that it can burn directly in the water. Just bring the lighter to the spring to set it on fire.
The Museum of Burnt Souls Memorial
Destroyed cars, which came under fire when carrying refugees who tried to leave Tskhinval during the attack on August 9th, 2008, were brought to the crossroads of the village of Tbet and the Zar Road. In the middle of the circle there are a large crucifix and a metallic monument featuring a tree with the falling leaves, dubbed "The Tree of Grief."
The Zar road was the only way to leave the city safely when the Georgian troops attacked - at least Tskhinval residents thought so. Alas, they were wrong - the road was shot using howitzers and almost the entire column of refugees was destroyed.
The Zar road was the only way to leave the city safely when the Georgian troops attacked - at least Tskhinval residents thought so. Alas, they were wrong - the road was shot using howitzers and almost the entire column of refugees was destroyed.
Khetagurovo (Tsunar)
Previously, this large village was called Tsunar (Small Nar). In 1868, several families from the Tual Village of Nar in North Ossetia - the same place where Kosta Khetagurov was born - moved there. By the centenary of Tsunar, it was renamed to bear the name of the main Ossetian poet and playwright; every year October 15th - the birthday of Kosta Khetagurov – is a holiday there. However, there is a possibility that the first Khetagurovs settled down in these parts even earlier. There was a manor somewhere in the area given to Dokhchiko Khetagurov by Heraclius II of Georgia in 1786. "We have granted this gracious letter to you, our public servant, Ossetian Khetaguri from Nar <...> for the fact that your son Bolatiko was with us in Aspindza where we defeated the Turks and the Lezgins. He fought bravely and was killed. You are therefore shown graciousness and granted an estate of the exterminated Petriashvili [clan] in Krtskhilvani as an escheat.
At the entrance to the village from the Tskhinval side stands the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, dating back to the 14th century. It was a difficult time for Georgia - the Mongol invasions, internal conflicts, plague - so it can only be compared in size with the buildings of the "golden" 12th century located in neighboring Tigve and Ikorta. There is no complex combination of volumes or elegant stone carving.
Previously, this large village was called Tsunar (Small Nar). In 1868, several families from the Tual Village of Nar in North Ossetia - the same place where Kosta Khetagurov was born - moved there. By the centenary of Tsunar, it was renamed to bear the name of the main Ossetian poet and playwright; every year October 15th - the birthday of Kosta Khetagurov – is a holiday there. However, there is a possibility that the first Khetagurovs settled down in these parts even earlier. There was a manor somewhere in the area given to Dokhchiko Khetagurov by Heraclius II of Georgia in 1786. "We have granted this gracious letter to you, our public servant, Ossetian Khetaguri from Nar <...> for the fact that your son Bolatiko was with us in Aspindza where we defeated the Turks and the Lezgins. He fought bravely and was killed. You are therefore shown graciousness and granted an estate of the exterminated Petriashvili [clan] in Krtskhilvani as an escheat.
At the entrance to the village from the Tskhinval side stands the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, dating back to the 14th century. It was a difficult time for Georgia - the Mongol invasions, internal conflicts, plague - so it can only be compared in size with the buildings of the "golden" 12th century located in neighboring Tigve and Ikorta. There is no complex combination of volumes or elegant stone carving.
Photo of Ada Bagian
© 2019 Caucasus Explorer
CONTaCTS
- for busines inquiries:
- dl@caucasus-explorer.com
- for questions about tour:
- info@caucasus-explorer.com
This travel guide was created by Caucasus Explorer. Our company conceived this project to respond to the hospitality of the highlanders and, at the same time, to support the urban development of Tskhinval and help preserve the traditional way of life in the villages.
